Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Basement Remodel: Part 2

Yesterday you read about how the basement would be divided into two spaces and how the walls were covered with insulation to provide a little extra warmth to the cold space. The next step was to install metal framing that the drywall would be attached to.  Again, I didn’t do any of the work and came home to see what was done during the day so I can’t give you the play-by-play.  What I can tell you is why we chose metal framing vs. wood and why we framed things the way we did. 

Metal vs. Wood

Basements are notoriously damp and prone to water leakage in Michigan.  My cousin, as the expert, told me that it makes more sense to use metal framing since it won’t rot or warp in moist conditions like wood may.  Not to mention that metal framing is perfectly straight and with wood you have to try to find straight pieces for your framing or the walls won’t be perfectly straight.  I chose to listen to his sage advice and went with the metal framing.  Let me say I don’t know the cost difference – he had extra metal framing that he gave me free of charge so I really made out in this deal!  Some people asked about the carpet – we didn’t rip any of it up since he was able to install the framing directly over the carpet and into the cement floor.

Again – a reminder of what we started with:


See the gray furnace and duct work in the bottom right corner?  I forgot to take a good before picture but the furnace jutted out into the space (as seen below) – something I absolutely hated!  Who wants to see the water furnace and heater when they are in a living space?  I decided that I wanted a wall build to hide these from anyone walking into the living space but still provide access to them for maintenance and in case anything happens to them in the future.  Luckily the access panels are on the other side of the furnace so we were able to build a wall as close to the back end of the furnace as the pipes would allow us.

IMG_2710IMG_2713 A framework was also installed for the new wall that would divide the storage space from the living space.  Originally I was going to keep the front portion of the chimney visible since the brick is kind of cool but it was just easier to hide the entire thing.

IMG_2714 Two walls were also built around the sump pump.  We were going to dry wall behind it as well but there just wasn’t enough space since the sump is so close to the wall.

IMG_2711 Next up – hanging the dry wall and taping the seams. Fun stuff, people.


  1. AH! ok. Smart move with building a room around the drain. We did go to Vintage Vouge in Ferndale! Awesome place!! We ended up at an Antique Store along 12 mile in Berkley. It was huge and had a ton, but I can't remember the name of the place.

  2. Looking forward to seeing the results! Just out of curiousity - how would you replace the carpet if needed in the future?

  3. YGS - If needed I'd have to cut the carpet around the perimeter of the space (underneath the trim). As it is today, you can't lift out the carpet since it is glued directly to the cement floor so we determined that I wouldn't be losing any functionality by installing the walls over the carpeting. In fact, it adds a little warmth so cold air doesn't come up from the floor! My basement is fully waterproofed, which is why I'm assuming the carpet is glued down. There are channels under the carpet that any water would go through to exit the house if I was to have any water enter the space.

    Hope that helps!

  4. Danielle - I haven't checked out the antique store in Berkley yet. I'll have to do so this week just to see what they have. Thanks for the tip!



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